Lights.

Photogenic Photogen powerlight 600

I have two of this AC operated work horse lights. The manufacture claims these 600 watt second (Joule) strobes have same output as most 1200 WS units.

The output power and the modeling light brightness are adjustable by two slide controls on the back, and can be moved together to keep modeling light brightness similar to the flash brightness for the unit.

They have built in photo sensor to trigger when another flash fires, so only one camera sync cord or wireless release is usually needed

STATUS: Active

Photogenic Eclipse 60 umbrellas

I have two, use them with the above powerlight units

STATUS: Active

Crown Pro VS-201 strobe

A lower power AC strobe. It usually has a snoot on it for giving some kick to hair.

STATUS: Active

Honeywell 52A modeling slave strobonar

I have had a pair of these lights since the 1960s. They still work (2017). Complete with the accessory kit which provided barn doors, white, green, red, blue, and dark grey lens in addition to the clear lens

STATUS: Semi-active

Metz 60CT1 potato masher

This replace my old Metz 202 flash. More power, Better guide number, better auto exposure control, and instead of dumping the un-needed energy during the flash, a thyristor is used to stop the flow to the flash tube when needed. Otherwise very similar.

Uses the same batteries as the 202, including the old NICAD pack which occasionally gets new C cells put it.

I also have a Metz 60-40 slave head that attaches to the power pack and give me a second light source, also fully automatic

STATUS:

Light Meters

Minolta Flashmeter VI

This meter reads ambient, flash or the combination. It works on the flash either corded or just detects when the flash goes off.

It measures incident light with the white dome, replace that with a disk for reflected light, or use the lens and optical finder for a spot meter mode. Allow you to take a number of reading, and specify if those reading are high light, medium light or low light (shadow) areas. It comes up with the proper exposure values for the camera. I still use with the studio strobes to verify the lighting ratios of each light, and gives me a quick starting aperture for the camera. Since I am using digital bodies, I can review the result exposure and tweak a little.

STATUS: Active

Gossen Color Pro 3f colour temp meter

This was really much more important in the film era, so it does not get used very often any more. It reads the colour temperature of the light and indicates the required correction filter to bring the colour balance into line with what the film requires.

STATUS: Active

Gossen Sixticolor Colour temp meter

The predecessor to the above 3F meter, this one was first released in 1958. I got it used, did the same thing as the more modern version only in an analog manner. Also it is nowhere near as sensitive to light as the new one. Worked very well in bright light, but for dimmer interior lights, you had to move right near them.

STATUS: SOLD

Gossen Lunasix light meter

This was my standard light meter for many years while shooting wedding. Since the Hasselblad gear did not have built in light meters. It could read reflected or incident light by moving the top covers. Most likely would work if I could get some mercury batteries for it.

STATUS: Retired to display case

Westin Master III

British made light meter made 1956 to 1960. This was my upgraded meter as a teenager. It had a bit better performance than my old GE meter. Still works

STATUS: Retired to display case

GE DW-68 meter

Very simple meter from 1950. This was my first good working meter in high school. It had removable hood that converted the meter to read incident light directly in footcandles. Still working

STATUS: Retired to display case

Hanimex PR-85 Spot meter

Got this one in high school. It had the long right angle telescope viewer that you looked through and when on target, press the needle release button on the rear to take reading. Unscrew the telescope unit, install the lens cone like unit and it reads reflected light at about 30 degrees view. Swap that for the dome and you have an incident light meter. Sweet.

STATUS: it died

Bewi Zoom spot meter

This was from the mid 1970s. It would take a reading over whatever area you zoomed the viewfinder to, So you could take a larger area, or zoom down to get reading of 1 degree area. I used this a lot for wedding work, to meter church windows and other zooms where I could not walk up and reading with the lunasix meter. When I got the Minolta flash meter 6, I traded this one in as most of my gear had built in TTL metering including spot metering, and this thing took mercury cells.

STATUS: SOLD

Tripods, monopods and heads

Gitzo G1228 Mountaineer carbon tripod

One of the very first carbon fiber tripods, got this back in the late 1990s. It is still my favourite tripod. I have a very short column that will pop into the top for on the ground shooting. And I have covered the legs with foam covers usually used for bicycle handlebars. Add a carry strip, and the added bubble level to the column. Ready to go.

STATUS: Active

Arca-Swiss-Monoball-B1-Ballhead

Still the best ball head. Strong, reasonably light, have had this almost as long as I have had the Gitzo tripod. Almost all the bodies have an AS quick release plate on them.

STATUS: Active

NEST NT-530 carbon fiber gimbal head

I mostly use this head with the 600mm F4 lens. It allows me to follow birds, planes or other wild life, but has adjustable drag/locking knobs and balance positioners so I can let go of the camera/lens and it just stays there. I also have used it with the 300mm while shooting videos of aerobatic aircraft.

This replace a wimberley sidekick that either attached to the Arca B1 ball or I had made a special dedicated mount for it. This is a bit larger, but because it is taller, allows me to shot almost straight up.

STATUS: Active

Really Right Stuff lever operated quick release clamp for AS plates

I have a couple of these. One sits on a monopod, the other is attached were needed. Very fast on/off the monopod without concern of camera coming loose.

STATUS: Active

Gitzo G1560 Aluminum monopod/walking stick

A very strong, and light monopod. Constructed of aircraft grade aluminum. It is very rugged and light. I have hiked in many parts of the world and this is my hiking stick. It has a small ball head on the top, hidden under a plastic cover. Pull the top off, attach camera, shot the video or use the telephotos and done.

STATUS: Active

Bags and Cases

LowePro dryzone 200 backpack

A carry on sized backpack that is waterproof. The outer shell is a black re-enforced vinyl like material with a waterproof zipper. I can fit a 300mm f2.8, 5 D body 7D body, 16/35 f2.8 lens, 70/200 f2.8 lens, two teleconverters, a GoPro, small point and shoot, and on the outside room for a small laptop (not in the waterproof area) and other travel stuff.

STATUS: Active

LowePro lens trekker 600

Designed to take large lens, I can fit the 600mm f4 lens with a teleconverter and body attached into the back. Put the tripod on the outside. If I am using a small head like the sidekick, then it will fit in the lower pocket at the rear. Otherwise the big carbon fiber gimbal head sits in its own back hung on the back. A rain resistant cover is attached that can be pulled over the case in the event of rain

STATUS: Active

LowePro lens exchange lens case

I have a short one (100) and a long one (200). They fit either on you normal belt or better on a wide belt from LowePro. Quick single pull unzip, take one lens off you camera and land in the open section of the two lens spaces. Take second lens put on camera. Zip case closed. Allows lens changing when you have no place to set stuff down.

STATUS: Active

LowePro Stealth report 650 AW

An oversized shoulder bag, carries a smaller laptop, space for a couple of pro bodies and lens. Stuff can be gotten to through a zip opening in the top without having to fully open the bag. I usually use this at event, and smaller shoots.

STATUS: Active

Kata 3n1-20 sling pack

This is a bag that can be used as either a left shoulder sling, right shoulder sling or with both straps and waist band as a backpack

More than small enough for carry on. I have put:

a 1Dx 16/35 f2.8, plus 7D2 with booster,

16/35 f2.8 lens, 70/200 f2.8 lens, 2x teleconverter

GoPro, Garmin GPS, small audio recorder, spare batteries, small waterproof point and shoot

Filters, and a few other odds and ends.

About the only change I made was to add a chest strap to keep the two shoulder straps together when using it as a backpack.

STATUS: Active

 

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